Hirer's Guide
Your Guide
to Woodstock
Opus OP4 Camper
How to set up, use and pack down Woodstock — our 2025 Opus OP4 inflatable camper trailer. Watch the official Opus set-up tutorial, then use the sections below for Woodstock-specific details: where things are stored, how gas and the shower hook up, and how to pack the annexe away.
Sleeps 6
Plus 4 in the Annexe
Off-Road Trailer
2025 Opus OP4
160L Water
Hot Shower
200Ah Lithium
DO35 Coupling
At a Glance
Quick Specs
6
Sleeps inside (plus 4 in the annexe)
200Ah
Lithium battery
160L
Water (2 × 80L tanks)
75L
Fridge/freezer (stays on while towing)
1,800 kg
Tare — gross 2,000 kg; tow vehicle must be rated at least 2,000 kg
DO35
Cruisemaster coupling — 180 kg tow-pin weight, not a 50 mm ball
Yes
Hot outdoor shower (KickAss)
2 rings
Gas cooker — 2 × 4 kg bottles
⚠️ Must Watch Before You Set Up
Official Opus Set-Up Tutorial
This is the official OP4 set-up tutorial from OPUS Campers Australia (Owners HUB Episode 12, about 9 minutes). Watch it in full before you pick up. The sections below add Woodstock-specific details — where items are stored, how the gas hose and shower hook up, and how to pack the annexe onto the roof rack.
Watch Now
Safety Notes
Read these before you set up, use gas, or pack down
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Level ground, room to walk aroundSet up on reasonably level ground, with space all the way around. Duck at the rear corners — it is easy to bang your head.
Two people for the bed lidsOpening and lowering the bed lids is much easier and safer with two people. Lower each lid gently until the supports or struts are in — do not let a section drop.
Keep clear while it inflatesKeep children away from the air beams while the tent is filling. Do not put anything on the canvas while it is inflating.
Close the external air valves firstClose all external air valves firmly before you inflate. A loose valve is the usual reason the tent sags overnight. After inflation, close the main internal inflation valve (horizontal / clockwise) or the canopy can slowly deflate.
Gas is outdoor onlyTurn bottles and the yellow shut-off taps off when you are not using gas, and always before towing. Never hunt for a leak with a flame — use soapy water. Gas in an enclosed tent can cause unconsciousness, brain damage or death.
Hot shower is outdoor onlyDo not run the KickAss hot shower inside the tent, the annexe, or any enclosed space (carbon monoxide hazard). Test the water temperature with your hand before anyone gets under it — it can scald.
Air-conditioner is shore power onlyThe KickAss portable air-conditioner runs at a powered site, not off-grid. If you stand it outside, protect the unit itself from rain.
Don't pack canvas away wetIf you have to, tell Chris when you return it so it can be dried. Pack the annexe away in strong wind. Corner steady legs only support the trailer once it is on its wheels — they are not a jack, and they are not for lifting the camper.
Pickup & Drop-off
Location, timing, brake controller, and the DO35 coupling
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Pickup Location
Warana, Sunshine Coast QLD — off-street parking for loading, and you can leave your vehicle on the street outside. Pickup there is free.
Pickup & Drop-off Time
Standard pickup is from 6:00am, drop-off before 9:00pm. The handover takes 30–60 minutes — please allow time. Arrange a time with plenty of notice.
Tow Vehicle
Must be rated to tow at least 2,000 kg, and must have a working electric brake controller. We don't lend a brake controller — Woodstock cannot be collected without one. No special licence is needed.
Coupling
Woodstock uses a Cruisemaster DO35 — a drop-on tow pin, not a 50 mm ball. A 50 mm ball will not work. Tow-pin weight is 180 kg. We'll walk through hitching at pickup.
💡 Tip: Upload your driver's licence in the Camplify app before pickup. International hirers need passport + Australian-translated licence. No valid ID = no handover. If you don't have a suitable tow vehicle, you can book Vamuz to tow Woodstock.
Arriving, Unhitching & Levelling
Choosing a site, the DO35, jockey wheel and corner legs
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Pick a site that is as level as you can reasonably get, with space on both sides to fold the beds out and at the door side for the annexe and kitchen slide. Think about wind and shade, and leave room to walk around the back without walking into the rear corners. Once the trailer is in position, engage the handbrake.
Unhitching
1
Handbrake on, on as level a patch as you canKeep hands and fingers clear of the coupling. Keep the safety chains attached until the jockey wheel is down and the coupling is off the pin.
2
Lower the jockey wheelWind it until it is taking the weight of the drawbar, so the coupling is just unweighted.
3
Disconnect the plugsUnplug the 7-pin plug, the Anderson plug (if connected) and the breakaway cable from the tow vehicle. Disconnect the electrical plugs when the tow-vehicle engine is not running, or they can flatten the vehicle battery.
4
Unhook the safety chainsOnly once the jockey wheel is supporting the drawbar.
5
Remove the Checklock capThis is the plastic cap that snapped over the pin.
6
Unlock the couplingPush down the red lock button and slide the locking plate to the unlocked position (the lock button springs back; the pin locating port should be clear).
7
Wind the jockey wheel upRaise the coupling straight up off the tow pin. Move the vehicle forward once the pin is clear. Refit the tow-pin cover on the vehicle pin when it is not in use, so dirt stays out of it.
Levelling
Lengthways firstUse the jockey wheel to level the trailer front to back.
Corner steady legsUse the leg winder supplied (or a cordless drill with a 19 mm hex bit) to wind each corner steady leg down until it just touches the ground with enough pressure to stop rocking. Do not use the legs to lift or twist the chassis. They are not a jack.
Fold the legs down carefullyFold each stabiliser down with two hands — one to pull the blue handle, one to support the leg — so the locking pins are not damaged; then wind it down.
Recheck it is not rockingAdjust individual legs on uneven ground rather than winding one leg hard to force it level.
Folding Out the Beds
Spare-wheel carrier, latches, lids and canvas
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Chris's short version: unlatch it, fold out each side, lock it in, secure the straps, pull the annexe out and hit the pump, make sure the valves are all done up. The steps below are that sequence in full.
1
Lower the spare wheel carrierLower it to the horizontal position before you open the rear lid. Unclip it and support the weight so it cannot swing down out of control.
2
Undo the travel latchesUndo the safety clips and travel latches on both sides of the lid.
3
Front lidUnlatch and open it fully. Gas struts help take the weight. Secure the front lid to the front toolbox with the over-centre latch and the retaining pin.
4
Rear lidRepeat, then fit the two rear bed support legs. Push the D-pin clips through the holes and clip them so they cannot fall out. Work with two people if you can: one guides the lid over, the other catches it and lowers it gently. Nothing fully supports a lid until the struts or legs are in.
5
Check the canvasWalk right around and check the canvas is sitting properly in the aluminium channels and is not caught or snagged, especially around gas struts, hinges and where the two lids meet in the middle.
6
Corners and strapsPull each corner of the canvas over the corner of each bed tray so the seam lines up with the corner. If corner straps are fitted, hook them on and tension them. Tuck straps so they are secure and not flapping.
7
Zip the door closed before you inflateSo the tent inflates to the right shape.
Inflating the Tent & Annexe
Valves, the pump, and how long it takes
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If the annexe was packed away correctly, it will be in its storage bag on the roof rack, not left zipped to the canopy. Take the bag off the roof rack, zip the annexe on, and reconnect the pump / airflow connector that joins the annexe to the camper's air system — do not lose the spring from inside that connector. Then pull the annexe out and inflate. If it is already zipped on when you arrive, just pull it out, check the connector and valves, and hit the pump.
External valves — CLOSED
External valves on the tent and annexe must be closed (done up firmly) before you inflate. There are 5 valves on the tent and 7 on the annexe. To open a valve, turn it counter-clockwise; to close it, turn clockwise. A loose external valve is the usual reason the tent sags overnight — check them all again before bed.
Internal & linking valves — OPEN
The main internal inflation valve (inside the camper) must be open (vertical / in line). Turn it anti-clockwise to open. For the annexe to fill from the main tent, the annexe linking / cross-filling tube valves must both be OPEN. External annexe valves stay closed.
1
Lay the annexe outLay the annexe canvas out from the door side, clear of snags, before you start the pump.
2
Confirm the valvesEvery external valve done up, the main internal valve open, and the linking-tube valves open if the annexe is attached.
3
Hit the pumpTurn the power on at the control panel. Turn the pump master switch on if it is separate, then press the Air Inflation (pump) button and release it.
4
Stay nearby while it fillsOn Woodstock this takes about 5 minutes without the annexe, or 10–12 minutes with it. The pump runs on to the pre-set pressure (Opus Air Beams are specified at 7 psi) and shuts off by itself. You do not need to press the button again to stop it. If you ever need to stop the pump mid-cycle, use the main power switch — the inflation button is not a toggle.
5
Close the main internal valveWhen the pump stops, close the main internal inflation valve (horizontal, clockwise). You may also close some cross-linking valves for a longer stay, so pressure is held in each beam. Remember to open those again when you deflate.
6
Topping up laterIf a beam goes a little soft, you can run the built-in pump again; it will stop automatically at pressure. Then close the main valve again.
Pegging & Guy Ropes
Where the pegs are, and when guys are not optional
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Pegs and hammer
Pegs and the hammer (mallet) are in the driver's side storage.
In the wind
In wind, guy ropes are not optional. If it gets gusty, pack the annexe away rather than leaving it up. Do not over-stress zips when you tension the canvas.
Once the tent and annexe are upWalk around and peg the walls and guy ropes, then tension them so the canvas sits evenly.
Annexe skirtPeg the annexe skirt to the ground using the D-rings along the bottom edge once the skirt is on (see Annexe Walls & Floor).
Sleeping & Interior
Door, beds, lounge, linen, and lights
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Opening the doorOpen the door with the triangle-end key. Push the door inwards on the seal first — that takes pressure off the lock and it opens more easily. Hold the weight of the door as it folds down so it cannot swing and injure someone. Adjust the step height if needed: unhook the pins, slide the legs, replace the pins.
Two double beds + club loungeWoodstock has two double beds in the two sleeping pods (memory foam) plus the club lounge. Linen for both doubles is included. Sleeps 6 inside, plus room for 4 more in the annexe.
Lounge and tableSet up the lounge and table: back cushions in, table legs folded out and height set with the pins.
LightsTurn lights on from the control panel — the Renogy panel is on the passenger side, to the left of the entrance. We'll show you the switches at pickup.
Kitchen & Gas Cooker
Slide-out kitchen, 2 gas rings, bottles, and changing over
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Woodstock's kitchen is a slide-out stainless kitchen with sink, cutlery tray, pantry and 2 gas rings, on the door / cooker side of the trailer. A full kitchen kit (cookware, crockery, utensils) is included. Gas supply is 2 × 4 kg bottles. There is no shared changeover regulator — when one bottle runs out, you move the hose across to the other.
Sliding the kitchen out
1
Open the kitchen doorOpen the lockable kitchen door / latches, release the locks, and slide the kitchen out to full extension.
2
Use the support leg every timeFold down the support leg under the kitchen and use it whenever the kitchen is out. Adjust the height so it sits firmly.
3
Grey waterPut a bucket under the sink outlet (grey water) hose to catch the water. Do not let grey water run onto a site that forbids it, and do not pour hot oil down the sink. The kitchen uses quick-connect water hoses — a small amount of water can drip from the connectors, so a cloth is useful.
Connecting the cooker
Cooker gas hose
Stored inside the storage on the stainless kitchen, under the sink. Connect it to the gas outlet under the cooker side of the camper — a simple push-and-twist bayonet.
Yellow shut-off tap
Open the yellow gas tap behind that outlet by turning it 90°. Then open the valve on the gas bottle you are using (anti-clockwise, slowly). When you finish, turn the burners off, then turn off the yellow tap immediately, and close the bottle valve.
1
Knobs off, hob lid downuntil you are ready to light it. Slide the kitchen fully out first.
2
Connect the hoseTake it from under the sink, feed it through the opening under the kitchen if needed, and connect it to the gas outlet under the cooker side.
3
Open the yellow tap, then the bottleYellow tap 90°, then the bottle valve slowly anti-clockwise.
4
Keep ventilation clearThere is a ventilation point on the drop skirt and one on the roof of the rear pod. When the annexe is up, do not cover them. Do not close a room divider behind the kitchen slide while you cook.
5
Light the burnerLift the hob lid. Push in and hold the burner knob until the flame lights and stays on; keep holding until gas has had time to reach the burner (this can take several seconds after a bottle change). Do not lean across the burners.
Changing over to the second 4 kg bottle
1
Turn everything offCooker knobs, KickAss shower, and any other gas appliance. Close the valve on the empty bottle firmly (clockwise), and close the yellow shut-off taps if you are disconnecting at the bottle.
2
Move the hose acrossLeave the empty bottle valve closed and disconnect the hose. Keep the hose end clean. Check the other 4 kg bottle is in good condition, with a current test date (cylinders must be within 10 years of their stamp), and that its valve is off. Seat it in the holder and do up the J-clamp / strap.
3
Reconnect and tightenReconnect the hose to the full bottle and tighten it so it will not leak — like attaching a gas bottle to a BBQ at home. Do not over-tighten. Open the new bottle valve slowly (anti-clockwise).
4
Leak-check with soapy water. Never use a flame.Mix dishwashing liquid and water, put it on the bottle-to-hose and hose-to-regulator joints, and watch. Growing bubbles mean a leak: turn the bottle off immediately, remake the connection, and test again. If it still leaks, do not use it — contact Vamuz. If there is no leak, you can rinse off the soap and go ahead.
5
Re-open the yellow tapAllow a little extra time for gas to reach the burner when you light it. Close bottle valves when gas is not in use, and always before packing up or towing.
⚠️ If you smell gas: Turn the bottles off, ventilate, and do not switch electricals or light anything until it has cleared. Never slide the kitchen away while the cooker is still hot. When you pack the kitchen away, disconnect the water and gas quick-connects, stow hoses so they cannot catch in the runners, retract the support leg, slide the kitchen in and lock it.
Hot Shower
KickAss unit, where it lives, and how to hook it up
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Woodstock has a lockable shower box with instant gas hot water. The heater is a white KickAss unit, stored in the driver's side storage. The hoses and pipes for it are in the black box in that same storage (alongside the 240 V lead). This is outdoor use only — do not run it in the tent, the annexe or any enclosed space. The water is for washing only, not for drinking.
1
Set the unit up outdoorsTake the white KickAss unit and its pipes from the driver's side storage. Stand or hang it upright, with good ventilation, well away from canvas and flammable materials, with the flue / exhaust and air inlets unobstructed, and the unit protected from rain.
2
Connect the gasUse the approved hose and regulator supplied with the unit. The camper gas fitting and the water connections for the hot water are near the outdoor shower, under the camper, at the rear of the driver's side. Open the bottle slowly and leak-check with soapy water, never a flame.
3
Connect the water inletConnect the water inlet hose from the cold water coming from the camper (that same rear driver's-side fitting) to the heater's cold inlet.
4
Then connect the outlet backConnect the outlet from the heater back into the inlet on the camper, at the same area under the rear driver's side, near the outdoor shower. That returns heated water to the camper so the shower box can run hot water.
5
Turn the water onTurn the camper water pump on if you are drawing from the tanks. If you are on a mains-water hook-up, the pump can stay off. Switch the heater on. Open the shower flow when you are ready. The burner should click and ignite once it sees enough water flow.
6
Test the temperature with your hand before anyone showers.Increase gas or reduce water flow for hotter water; do the opposite for cooler. If an over-temperature cut-out trips, turn the water flow off and on again to relight.
7
Shut downTurn the unit off, close the gas at the bottle and at the yellow tap, turn the water pump off if you used it, release residual water at the shower head, disconnect hoses, and let the unit drain and cool before you stow it back in the driver's side storage.
Water Tanks & Mains Hook-up
160 L storage, the pump, refill cap, and town-water inlet
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Tanks
Two 80 L tanks — 160 L total — feeding the kitchen sink and the shower. Dual water gauges are on the control panel. Fill both tanks before you head off-grid.
Refill cap
There is a water refill cap at the rear of the driver's side.
Water pumpTurn the water pump on at the control panel when you want tank water at the sink or shower. The pump is pressure-switched: it should run when a tap is open and stop when the tap is closed. Turn the pump off whenever you are not using water, including when you leave camp or pack up, so it does not flatten the battery or run dry.
If the pump cycles on and off quicklySwitch the pump off on the control panel if you hear it switching on and off quickly and frequently. That usually means a tank is empty, a hose has come loose, or the pump is sucking air. Check the gauges and the hose connections, and do not keep running the pump dry — that can damage it.
Mains water (powered / town-water sites)
You can connect a hose direct from a tap into the camper's mains water inlet, so you don't drain the tanks and don't need the water pump on.
1
Use a clean drinking-water hoseif the site water will be used in the sink.
2
The mains-water inlet is above the water refill cap, at the rear of the driver's side.The hose connector just screws in. Screw the hose onto that inlet, open the tap, and leave the water pump switched off.
3
You can still use the sink and (once the KickAss is connected) the showerwithout drawing down the 160 L tanks. Disconnect and drain the hose before you pack up, and cap the inlet if a cap is fitted.
Power & Electrics
200 Ah battery, Renogy Home / Away, solar blanket, and the inverter
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Woodstock has a 200 Ah lithium leisure battery, a portable solar blanket, DC-DC charging while you tow, and a plug-and-play 240 V charger at powered sites. The battery leaves on hire fully charged. The Renogy control panel is on the passenger side, to the left of the entrance — that is the panel with the Home and Away buttons.
Home
When you arrive and want the camper "on," press Home. That brings on the camper's systems (lights, pump, sockets and so on).
Away
When you leave the site, go to bed, or start packing up, press Away for a low-power state. If you want the fridge on while you tow, check it is still on after you press Away, and use the switch in the fridge compartment if needed. Do not assume Away will keep the fridge running.
Charging while you towThere is an Anderson plug on the drawbar feeding the batteries through the DC-DC charger. If the tow vehicle has a matching Anderson, connect it while towing. Disconnect it when the vehicle engine is off, or it can flatten the vehicle battery.
Portable solar blanketSolar on Woodstock is a portable solar blanket, not a roof panel. It plugs into the Anderson plug on the driver's side, under the 240 V shore-power inlet. That inlet is towards the front on the driver's side. Use the blanket and lead supplied with the trailer.
The inverterSwitch the inverter on at the control panel when you need 240 V from the battery. Leave it on while you are on shore power, because on Woodstock the inverter must be on for shore power to charge the batteries. Switch it off when you do not need it, except when plugged into shore power.
What you can plug in off-gridFine to use: phone, laptop and camera chargers, and other small plug-pack devices. Do not run kettles, hair dryers or other high-draw appliances off-grid. The KickAss portable air-conditioner is for shore power only.
💡 Tip: If the battery is getting low, tow for a few hours and/or plug into a powered site. Turn off anything you do not need. The official current Opus Australia OP4 page lists a 2,000 W Renogy inverter as standard with this electrical setup.
Shore Power (240 V)
Powered sites, the lead, and leaving the inverter on to charge
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Air-conditioning and 240 V power points need a powered site. The 240 V charger tops up the lithium battery when you are plugged in, but on Woodstock the inverter must be switched on for shore power to charge the batteries.
The 15-amp lead
In the driver's side storage, in the black box. The hot-water system pipes are in that same black box. Inspect the lead for damage and do not use a damaged lead.
Shore-power inlet
Towards the front on the driver's side, with the solar-blanket Anderson plug underneath it.
1
Use a powered caravan site with a 15-amp outlet.If the site only has a household 10-amp socket, ask at pickup about the right adaptor — do not force a mismatch.
2
Switch off firstMake sure appliances you care about (and the KickAss air-conditioner) are off, and that the site pedestal / outlet is switched off before you plug in.
3
Camper first, then the sitePlug the lead into the camper inlet first, then into the site outlet. Switch the site outlet on.
4
Switch the inverter onOn the control panel. On Woodstock the batteries will not charge from shore power unless the inverter is on.
5
Check the 240 V power points are live.There is one outside on the annexe side, and one under the storage compartment near the rear double bed. These are the sockets for the KickAss air-conditioner once you are on shore power. Route the lead so it is not a trip hazard and cannot be crushed or driven over.
6
To disconnectTurn appliances off, switch the site outlet off, unplug from the site first, then from the camper. Stow the lead dry and loosely coiled back in the black box in the driver's side storage.
💡 Tip: Stay plugged in for the duration of a powered-site stay if you can — it keeps the battery up and is what makes the air-conditioner usable.
Fridge
75 L fridge/freezer, the compartment switch, and leaving it on while towing
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Woodstock has a 75 L dual-zone fridge/freezer on a powered slide. It is a 12 V compressor fridge (no gas mode). It can be left on while towing. Watch the battery when you are off-grid. If it is not cold, check the door is properly closed, switch it off and on, and give it 15–20 minutes.
Fridge switch
There is a switch for the fridge inside the fridge storage compartment. Open the powered slide and switch the fridge itself on with that switch.
Compartment fan
There is also a fan you can switch on that removes hot air from inside the fridge storage. In hot weather, switch it on so the fridge does not fight a hot box. Leave ventilation around the fridge and do not pack the compartment so tightly that the fan cannot move air. Switch the fan off for travel if you do not need it on the road.
Air-Conditioner
KickAss portable unit — shore power only, and Chris's overnight set-up
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Woodstock's air-conditioning is a KickAss portable air-conditioner, used on shore power only. Do not try to run it off-grid. Plug it into a 240 V power point on the camper once you are on shore power — one outside on the annexe side, and one under the storage compartment near the rear double bed. Route the cable so it is not a trip hazard.
⚠️ Protect it from rain. If you stand the unit outside, keep it on a flat, dry surface and protected from rain. Keep clearance around it, stand it upright for a couple of hours before you switch it on after moving it, and never turn it off by yanking the plug — use the power button. Keep it away from gas bottles, the cooker and other ignition sources.
Chris's recommended set-up at night
Place the air-conditioner outside at night and hose the cold air in.
1
Stand the unit outsideOn a flat, dry surface, protected from rain, with clearance around it and the hot-air exhaust free to blow outdoors.
2
Hose the cold air inFit the cold-air hose and run it into the camper or annexe through a window, door or vent opening, and settle the canvas so as much warm air as possible stays out.
3
Plug in, then power onPlug into the 240 V point, use the power button, and choose cooling mode. Sleep mode is available for quieter night use.
Diesel Heater
Works off-grid — the remote is on the pantry
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Works off-grid
The diesel heater works off-grid (air-conditioning is the KickAss portable unit on shore power).
The remote
The remote is on the top shelf of the pantry. Use that remote to turn the heater on and off, and to set the temperature, as marked on the remote itself. If it will not start, contact Vamuz rather than forcing it.
Annexe Walls & Floor
Where they are stored, how to fit them, and no privacy walls
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Annexe walls
The zip-on / zip-off annexe sections (walls) are stored under the seats inside the camper.
Annexe floor
Stored in the jerry-can holder at the front of the camper. There are no privacy walls.
Pegs, mallet and spare bag
Pegs, the hammer (mallet) and the spare storage bag for the annexe are in the driver's side storage.
When packing the roof away
Unzip the annexe and detach it. Detach the airflow connector (do not lose the spring inside it), put the annexe in its storage bag, and attach the bag to the roof rack. Do not leave the annexe on the camper — it is a tight fit and difficult to pack if it stays attached.
1
Fit walls and floor after the annexe roof is inflated and pegged.Take the wall sections out from under the seats, and take the floor from the jerry-can holder at the front.
2
Wall skirtPosition the wall skirt along the entry-side wall of the camper. Attach it with the Velcro strips and the zips around the edges. Peg the skirt to the ground through the D-rings along the bottom edge, using the pegs and mallet from the driver's side storage.
3
Zip the wall sections onZip them onto the annexe roof / sides and do up Velcro seals between the canopy and the annexe. Attach the floor. Re-tension guy ropes so zips are not over-stressed.
4
To removeUnzip the walls, fold them dry and reasonably clean, and stow them back under the seats. Dry the floor and return it to the jerry-can holder at the front. Do not pack them away wet.
💡 To put the annexe roof back on: Take the bag off the roof rack, zip the annexe roof onto the canopy, clip the left and right buckles at the bed ends, Velcro the straps, and reconnect the pump / airflow connector (keep the spring inside it). You can partly deflate the canopy if you need easier access to the zip, then close external valves, open both linking-tube valves, and inflate.
Pack-Down
Deflate, take the annexe off, fold, latch, and bag it on the roof rack
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Allow extra time, and do not rush the lids. Take the annexe off before you fold the camper away — it is much easier with the annexe detached, and a tight, difficult pack if you leave it on.
Official pack-down
Official pack-down tutorial from OPUS Campers Australia: Owners HUB Episode 13 — OP4 Packdown Tutorial. Use the Woodstock-specific steps below for the annexe (unzip it, keep the spring, bag it on the roof rack).
1
Gas offTurn gas off at the yellow taps and at both bottle valves. Disconnect the cooker hose, stow it under the sink, and refit outlet plugs. Shut down and stow the KickAss shower.
2
Disconnect mains water and 240 Vif connected. Turn the water pump off. Empty the grey-water bucket.
3
The fridge can be left on for travel / towing.Switch the fridge-box fan off if you do not need it on the road. Press Away on the Renogy panel only after you have decided what should stay running. If you want the fridge on while you tow, check it is still on after you press Away, and use the switch in the fridge compartment if needed.
4
InsidePack personal items, close both layers of every window with no water or dirt trapped between them, strap the mattresses, and stow the table and lounge cushions in the footwell so they cannot shift. Everyone out. Zip the door closed. Retract the steps and latch the door.
5
Annexe walls and floor offTake the walls off, dry, and stow them under the seats. Dry the annexe floor and return it to the jerry-can holder at the front. Unpeg guys and the skirt; return pegs and the mallet to the driver's side storage. Get the spare storage bag for the annexe from the same storage.
6
DeflateOpen the external quick-release valves on the tent and the annexe valves / linking tubes as required, and open the main internal valve if it was closed after inflation. Let the canvas go fully soft.
7
Take the annexe off before you fold the lids.Unzip the annexe, and detach the pump connector that joins the annexe to the camper's airflow system. Do not lose the spring from inside that connector. Put the annexe in its storage bag and attach the bag to the roof rack.
8
Fold the canvas inLift the remaining tent canvas off the bed-end corners and fold it into the seals, as much as possible into the main body, especially around gas struts, hinges and where the lids meet. No canvas should sit outside a hinge seal.
9
Rear lid first, then the front.Disconnect bed-end supports. Fold the rear lid first, then the front. Do not latch yet. Walk around and tuck again. Push the lids down to let remaining air out.
10
Latch carefullyWind the triangle / over-centre latches out to their maximum first, get each latch over its hook, and close the latches closest to the centre / hinges first, gradually. Do not use a latch as a lever to drag the lid down — that can break the hook. Then tighten each latch, and re-check, because tightening one can loosen another.
11
FinishFold up bed-leg supports and the spare-wheel carrier, and check locking pins are fully in. Stow the kitchen (never while hot). Close and lock the kitchen door and every other hatch. Retract and fold up the stabiliser legs. Check the annexe bag is securely attached to the roof rack, and that the airflow-connector spring was kept with the connector. If the canvas is wet, tell Chris — do not pack on and hope.
Hitching Up & Towing Checks
DO35 coupling, electric brakes, weights, and pre-trip checks
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Weights
Tare 1,800 kg, gross 2,000 kg. Your tow vehicle must be rated to tow at least 2,000 kg. Tow-pin weight is 180 kg. A 50 mm ball will not work.
Electric brakes
Your tow vehicle must have a working electric brake controller. Towing without a brake controller is dangerous, illegal and voids warranty. We don't lend one — Woodstock cannot be collected without one.
Hitching the DO35
Keep hands clear. Keep safety chains attached while you couple or uncouple. Do not use the tow pin or coupling for recovery.
1
Remove the cover from the vehicle's DO35 tow pin.The pin and the coupling should be clean and lightly greased, free of sand and dirt.
2
Set the coupling unlockedPush down the red lock button and slide the locking plate back until the button springs back and the pin hole / view port is clear.
3
Lower onto the pinWind the jockey wheel so the coupling sits above the pin. Align, then lower the coupling onto the pin until it is fully seated and the pin protrudes through the locking plate (visible in the view port).
4
Lock itPush the red lock button so the locking plate slides forward into the locked position (plate protruding at the front, pin still visible through the port).
5
Fit the Checklock capHook the back edge on first, then press the front down until it snaps.
6
Jockey wheel up, chains and breakaway onWind the jockey wheel up and stow it for travel. Cross or twist the safety chains if you need to keep them off the ground, and clip them to the vehicle (not to the hitch head), with enough slack to turn. Attach the breakaway cable to a solid point on the vehicle, not to the same hole as a chain if you can avoid it.
7
Plug inPlug in the 7-pin flat plug — this runs the trailer lights and the electric brakes. Connect the drawbar Anderson plug if the vehicle has one, for DC-DC charging while you tow. Release the trailer handbrake when you are ready to move.
Pre-trip checks
LightsIndicators, brake lights, tail lights, number-plate light.
Electric brakesWith the vehicle running, use the brake-controller manual-override lever and confirm the trailer brakes hold.
Locked and stowedCoupling locked, Checklock cap snapped, pin visible in the port, jockey wheel up, chains on, breakaway on, 7-pin in, hatches and kitchen locked, lids latched and pins in, spare-wheel carrier up, stabilisers up, gas bottles off and clamped, doors locked.
Tyre pressure40 psi when cold. Recheck wheel nuts after the first 100 km and then every 1,000 km. Gas must stay off while towing.
Common Mistakes
The ones that catch people out — avoid these
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Not parking level first.
Folding lids out alone, or letting a section drop before the supports are in.
Leaving an air valve loose, so the tent sags overnight, or forgetting to close the main inflation valve after the pump stops.
Banging your head on the rear corner.
Not pegging guys in the wind, or leaving the annexe up in a blow.
Leaving the annexe zipped to the camper when packing away — it is a tight, difficult fold. Unzip it, detach the airflow connector (keep the spring), bag it and attach the bag to the roof rack.
Losing the spring from inside the annexe airflow / pump connector.
Packing the canvas (or the annexe walls) away wet.
Running the water pump while it is cycling on and off, or with empty tanks.
Stowing the kitchen while the cooker is hot, or catching the gas hose in the runners.
Trying to hitch a DO35 onto a 50 mm ball, or towing without a brake controller.
Leaving the inverter off on shore power, so the batteries do not charge.
Return & Cleaning
What to do before you bring Woodstock back
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Pack it away properlyAnnexe unzipped, bagged and on the roof rack (spring kept with the airflow connector), lids latched, kitchen locked, gas off, legs up.
Canvas and walls dryNever pack the canvas or the annexe walls away wet. If you have to, tell Chris when you return it so it can be dried.
Empty the grey-water bucketand wash the dishes. Sweep out sand. Take out all rubbish.
Stow what you usedKickAss shower and its pipes back in the driver's side storage, 240 V lead coiled in the black box, pegs and mallet back in the driver's side storage, annexe floor in the front jerry-can holder, walls under the seats.
Report any damageLet us know at drop-off about any damage to the trailer or equipment. Repairs will be quoted and arranged through Camplify.
We handle full detailingbetween hires, so just leave it tidy. No smoking or vaping in or around the camper — $250 minimum detail fee for smoke smell, including heavy campfire smoke.
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